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Here Are Some Epoxy Garage Floor Before And After Results

Now that you have decided on a color blend or at least have narrowed it down to a few options you may be concerned about Moisture Vapor Emission. I recommend you just bite the bullet and get a Moisture Vapor Barrier installed before the Polyaspartic Heavy Chip System. This costs another $2.50 per sq ft but you'll never have to worry about moisture and you'll have the best system out there (polyaspartic on top and bottom with a barrier before it.) 

You only need an epoxy moisture vapor barrier if you have enough moisture in your slab that comes up strong enough to bubble your system, but there is no way to 100% predict if you are going to have that much force in the form of moisture coming up later. The tests we have in the industry are just a snapshot in time and tell us the current moisture content or current humidity. They are both good indicators of those two things, but they are simply just that, indicator of current conditions. So if our Tramex Moisture Reader shows a High Moisture Content then you need a stand alone barrier before the polyaspartic because the odds of Moisture coming up and damaging your system is significantly higher.  LabSurface's MVB (Moisture Vapor Barrier) is the highest rated in the industry at 25lbs of resistance and you only have to put it down at 16 mils thick to get that much protection opposed to some companies that need you to buy 30+ mils of coating to get even less pounds of resistance than that, plus it dries in hours opposed to days. If your reading is mid rang, a little high or even low but you want protection realizing that moisure content in your slab can change over time and you are willing to throw the dice some people swap the polyaspartic primer for a flexible epoxy with less protection (9 lbs) but this is risky because when you get less protection your risk increases. Its called a Mitigator when you buy an epoxy that is designed to resist against Moisture Vapor Emission (not all epoxies resist against moisture) and use it as the base coat to throw chips into because far less effective than a Moisture Barrier and unless you put the coating down so thick that the distance between the lowest sunk chip and the bottom of the coating is the minimum depth of the coating requried to be a mitigator it is useless since all mitigators require a minimum thickness to be effective the chips are essentially piercing your barrier and giving the coating perforations for the moisture to brake thru later. So there are options the sales person can walk you thru but when you start walking down the moisture mitigator line instead of the moisture vapor barrier primer line you maybe, maybe, might be costing yourself more money, especially if your time reemptying the garage and having the entire system removed and reinstalled because it is bubbling is so high that buying the Moisture Vapor Barrier is looking more viable. That's why I say even you don't high reading now, just get the barrier and be done with it and move on with life.

So this is what you do: If you have the money and don't want to ever have to worry about this just tell the sales person you want the polyaspartic package and you want to add the 25 pound Moisture Vapor Barrier (MVB) by LabSurface.